雨中登泰山 李健吾Yus Zhong Dengz Taibr Shan Lim Jianrk Wuw

Yus Zhong Dengz Taibr Shan Lim Jianrk Wuw

Cong hvoche shang yyaowangp Taibr Shan, gishihg neanlai you haaoxie cih l, meeicih hiangki "Kongt Zi dengz dongl shan erw xiao Lub, dengz Taibr Shan erw xiao tian xia" na juk hua lai, jiu joeder guoz erw bu dengz, xiangr s qiand xia youjiub d wwenhuad choantongy yi biy zhaij shiwde. Duml Furt d yuaanwangp:

"hui dang lings jue dingp, yi lanp zhongr shan xiao", w y yiyang you, xixz huw llaiqu congcongx, meeicih dou dangmian cuooguoz l.

Errjinh queeshib yao dengz Taibr Shan l, pianpianr tiangong bu zuoomeib, xia ki yus lai, xixiliilii, bu xiangr luo zai diishang, daor xiangr luo zai xinli. Tian s huih d, xin s chen d. Women yuey hao l qingchenh chufa, ren qibz l, yus que yueq xia yueq da. Deng tianqingh ma? Xiang z zye miaaomangs d "deng" ziy, xianb s biemenx. Panp dao sriyi dian ban zhongj, tianse zhuan bai, w buyouw hank l yi juk: "zou bak!" daiidong neanqingrren, kuad ki beibaoy, singzyibbobbo, chao Dait Zongx Fangl chufa l.

S yanh s wus, women biaanrenk buqings, zhiw jianp huimmengmmeng yipian, ba laaoda yi zuom gaoshan, syangsyangsiasia, guoy l yige yyanshib. Guvlao d Taibr Shan yueefa xianh der cuiweitr l. Women cai guoz Dait Zongx Fangl, zyentian d hooushengk jiu ba women xiyinz dao Huf Shan shvikul d daabal qanmian. Qih gup daashui, cong shvikul d qaokongt yuez chu, fangvfurf qih fuyd sxanguang hoangjinyd, zhib pu siaqu, pengt z lnlintx d luaanshit, jiki yipian xvebai shvizhut, tuop xiany yibanb, sa zai hoixuans d shvimian. Zyeli ziaozuo Qeuzai Wans: juushuo qiufl zaaoyih bei Liol Dongt Bin dus syangtian l, kevshi wangp guooqu, tiaoozhiqt fanteng, xiangr youh hoidao l guuju.

Women raooguoz Huf Shan, zhanz dao bal qiao shang, yibian s pngjingb d hhushui, yingz z xefengxiiyuv, lanvyyangyyang drishi yux buz buqian, yibian que yin’evcyizya, sirx you qianjunwaanmav, duop zai kilib d hoangjinyd divxia. Hoangjinyd s fangbianw d bivyukx, qqishib s yi fuyd xiishay, hu z yi fuyd mmeiyou jingweiyx d jingzhizd ttu’anm, touumingh d bbaishay qingqingb ya z touumingh d mivhuang huaweny. --yevxu driyou zhinio ccaineng zhiyf chu zyezhongc guiqib d gingse.

Yus da kilai l, women guaid jin Wwangmur Miaol hou d Qih Zhen Cixt. Zyeli goongfengd z qih zun suuxiangr, zyengmian dangzhong s Liol Dongt Bin, liiangpang s tade ppengyour Tiieguaid Lim h Hew xiangur, dongxil liiangce s tade si g dirzi, svoyiw ziaozuo Qih Zhen Cixt. Liol Dongt Bin h tade liang weir ppengyour daor y hai baale, zhanz zai kanx li d liang g hiaotongr h liiushum jingc duiimian d laaoren, srizai s sxaojianp d choanshenx zh zuo. Yibanb miaooyul d suuxiangr, wangvwangz bushi pngbanm, ziushi guaiidank, zaooxingt ouvery meib d, youh bu xiangr zhonggguorren, gen bushang zye weir laaoren zyeyang bizhen, qinqie. Wwuming d diaosuujia dui neanlingp h miaanmaor d chayiib you hen shenb d reenshik, xngxiangw ccaihui zyeyang xuvxuvrrusheng. Bushi neanqingrren ttixingxs w gai zou l, w hhaihui xinshangt siaqu d.

Women llaidao yuvdi, zou shang dengshan d zyenglu, yilianz chuanguoz san zuom srifangl: Yi Tianmenm, Kongt Zi Denglinr Chul h Tianjielt. Shui shengk luo zai women houumian, xongweirr d hong menm ba shan dangvzhur. Zou chu chang mmendongt, huoorrankailangv, shan youh dao l women genqian. Ren craoshang zou, shui craoxia liu, liu jin Huf Shan shvikul d Zhong Xisx peid women, yizhib peid dao Erh Tian Menm. Xoanyat llengcengt, srifengy dididada, qoanshui h yuvshui huns zai yiki, shun z xepot, liu jin shanjiansx, juanjuans d shvishengk biaancheng honghongkk d lleimingk. Yoousrihou feng guoz yun kai, zai divxia waangjianp Nanl Tianmenm, yingvyingvcyuocyuo, songvlip shantou, haaoxiangr bing bu hen yuanz; jiny Sribah Pan fangvfurf yi tiao huihbai da mangf, ppufuzp zai shanxiat dangzhong; geengduo d srihouh, wuyun siihed, ccengloanddiezyang dou cheng l shvimots shanshui. Tangzs guoz Zhong Xisx shviqians d diifang, zou bu taib yuanz, ziushi yoouming d Jing Shit Yutk, yipian daashui maanguoz yi mul daaxiao d yi g da shit pingtb, guangguang d shittou kej z yi bul 《Jingang Jing》, ziy you douq lai da, neanyue jiub l, da buufen dou rang shui mmoping l. hoidao zyenglu, yus bu zhidaol srenme srihouh yivjing zhur l, ren zou l yishen hanss, babuder ba yuvyiy tuop sialai, leangkuai leangkuai. Shuo qiaob y qiaob, women zyenghao zooujin yi zuom baaishum lin, yinsensen d, liangh l d tian youh biand hei l, haaoxiangr hoanghunh ttiqian dao l rrenjian, hanss budanw siaqu, hai joeder shenzi faleng, wwuguaiihu ren ba zyeli ziaozuo Baim Dongt. Women doousoud jingshenx, yiqis zoouguoz Hhutian Geml, dengz shang Huang Xiants Lingt, faxian shashit qoanshi cyihuang yyanpse, mngbai Zhong Xisx d shui wei srenme huang l.

Kaod zhur Erh Tian Menm d srifangl, xiangl siisiali tiaoowangp, w youh s jiao’ao, youh s danxin. Jiao’ao w yivjing zou l yiban d shanlu, danxin ziigi zou buliaow lingw yiban d shanlu. Yun boc l, wus youh syanglai. Women xiexiekx zoouzou, zoouzou xiexiekx, rrujinh yivjing s siawuhz si dian duo l. Kuunnan siihuw bing bu conzai, yan miaanqian s yi duanw pngtantp d siapot tuvlu, neanqingrren tiaootiaoz beengbeng, zou l siaqu, w y xiangr neanqingb l yiyang, yooushuoyoousiao, gen zai tamen houtou.

Women zai buzhibujoe zhong, cong siapot lu zhvandao syangpot lu, shanshiq doouqiaotd, syangshengd d podu yueellaiyuee da. Lu yizhib s kuanb zhengd d, driyou tand chu shenzi d srihouh, cai zhidaol ziigi zhanz zai shenbukevcee d shangous bian, mngmingh you shviliu, que ting bujianp shvishengk. Yangr kitou lai chao xil wangp, baankong gua z yi tiao liang chiz lai kuanb d bai daizi, soifeng baaidong, xiang couujinz l kan, gel z leaokuob d shangous, zou bu guooqu. Women zyengzai zaanbujoekoou, faxian yivjing llaidao yi zuom sriqiao genqian, ziigi hai bu qingchum s zenvme yihoisyi, xiiyus davshis l honshen syangxia. Yoanlai women yuudao lingw yi leiixingt d feipusb, gintiet qiao hou, women bu difangj, jihuw h taw zhuangq g zyengzhaow. Shvimian you liang san zhangz kuanb, liz di bugao, fachu yisieqianliv d llonghuf shengweij, daq z qiao xia qqixngguaiizyuang d shittou, kooumos penk d laaoyuanz. cong zye srihouh ki, shanjiansx youh cong zvoce zhuan dao youuce, shvishengk congcongs, gen women gen dao Nnantian Menm.

Guoz l Yonbuz Qiao, women kaishiry zou shang pandengz Taibr Shan drufengt d ppandaol. Nnantian Menm yinggai jinz l, yyouyu shanxiat hoihuant quzhed, ffan’erw wangp bujianp l. Yevhuac yevcao, srenme xngzhuangb y you, srenme yyanse y you, aiaaigigi, qianqianmangvmangv, yaooba cranyants d shanshit zhuangbandd kilai. Lianz w shang l yidian suiishuh d ren, y xue hiaohairzi, qiaq l yi ba, zridao huaduoc h yeczi quan nianc l, cai dai z baooqiank d xinqing, diu zai shanjiansx li, sui shui piaoqu. Daanshi ba ren d xinlingx daiidao yi zhongc cronggao d zingjiel d, que s naaxie "xik cui xias erw yaox jiaojx" d songshum. Tawmen bupa shangao, ba genm zad zai xoanyat joebil d xiifengy, shenzi niud d xiangr ppanlong zhumzi, zai baankong drankai zhiyec, xiangr s h koangfeng wwuyun zyengduoq tianri, youh xiangr s h qingfeng bbaiyun yyouxidy. Yooude songshum waangchuanqiushvi, bujianp ni lai, dduziw shang dao gaochul, xieb z shenzi zhangwangp.

Yooude songshum xiangr yi dingp moolioy da sans, zhiq kai l deng ni. Yooude songshum ziiddeqqilee, hianchu yi fub xiaosas d mmuyang. Buguanq zenvmeyaang, tawmen dou rang ni joeder tawmen s Taibr Shan d tianran d druren, shuiw shao l shuiw, dou xiangr bu yinggai shiwde. Wus zai dui songm shan d shanxiat piaolai piaoqu, tianse yanvkan hei jiang sialai. W bu zhidaol shang l duoshao srijiz, yi jiz youh yi jiz, s leequx yevshi kuvqux, haaoxiangr cong w you shengmingr yivlai ziuzai dengshan shiwde, maiz qanjiaoz, tuod houujiaoz, cai buguoz zou wanb manx sribah pan. W kaod zhur Shengxianrr Fangl, yangr kitou lai chao shang wangp, jiny sribah pan fangvfurf yi jiam chang tim, dad zai Nnantian Menm kou. W danvqiex l. Xinb qit d srijiz draizhaib d, ged buxia zhengd jiaoz. Guai buder Dongl Han d Ying Shaokc, zai 《Taibr Shan Fengshanxr Yir Jii》li, zyeyang xngrong: "yangr ship tian menm yaoty liaoz, ru cong xuet zhong ship tian, zhib shang qih li, laib qiw yangf changp weizy yizw, ming yueky huant daol, wangz wangz you bsuoy ke der erw dengz y, liang cong zher fudc jiaq qian ren xiangm qianf, hou ren jianp qian ren liozx dil, qian ren jianp hou ren dingp, ru huay zhongb leid ren yiwy, suo weikc mot xiongp nie shit mend tian zhiwy nan y." Yi weir laaodaaye, xieb z giaobuz, chuan huac yibanb, ce z shenzi, ganz dao women qiantou. Yi weir laaodaaneang, kuad z xiangdaiy, ginguanq jiaoz xiao, y wenvwenb dangdang, cong women shenbian guooqu. W xiangr Ying Shaokc shuo d naayang, "mu ship erw jiaoz bu sui", zhuazhur tie ffushou, jiuqc laom neanqingrren, zou shihg gih buz, xiekx yi kou qis, zhongyu zai siawuhz 7 dian zhongj, shang dao Nnantian Menm.

Xin hai zai tiaoz, tuip hai zai doud, ren daoodil hhaishi syanglai l. Dibtou wangp z xinb zhengd rran’erw chang jim l d ppandaol, w qqiguai ziigi juran y neng syanglai. W zou zai tianjiez shang, qingsongb yyukuai, xiangr yi g mmeishix ren yiyang. Yi paid leusum d hiaodianl, mmeiyou mnghaok, driyou biaojii, yooude mmenkou gua z yi zhiw zyaolicf, yooude chuangkou fangd z yi dui yingwufn, yooude s yi genm baangchuim, yooude s yi tiao jinj niu, diifang kuanchangl d baid z crazhuo, diifang draixiao d zriyou kaanggih, hou qiangl jiny tiet z zhengrongt d shanshit, qian lian zyengdui z waanzhangz d shenyuanss. Bie cheng yigem d hhaiyou naaxie shittou. Guh shiren xngrong Taibr Shan, shuo "taibr shan yants yants", zyujiej ren gaoosuk ni: yants yants, jishit maor. Ddiquet zyeyang, shandingp yueefa gei ni zyezhongc ganvjuex. Yooude shittou xiangr leanhuac banc, yooude xiangr daaxiangw tou, yooude xiangr laaoren, yooude xiangr woohuf, yooude cuooluo cheng qiao, yooude wuulip ru zhum, yooude ceeshen tand hais, yooude nuumu xiangxiangl. Yooude srenme y buxiangr, heihuhu d, yidong budong, duvzhur nide quulu. Neanyue jiub, choanshuo duo, Dengfengq Tai rang ni hiangxiangw diiwang baidg shan d syengkuang, yige guangtutu d diifang hui you yi kuait srijiet, drimingh s "Kongt Zi xiao tian xia chul". Yooude shanchis ziaozuo xistou pen, juushuo yuunio wangvchangw zai zyeli xis guoz ttoufa; yooude shandongt ziaozuo Bbaiyun Dongt, choanshuo guooqu wangz wai maod bbaiyun, rrujinh bu maod bbaiyun l, bbaiyun zai shanli yiran yyoulai yyouqu. Qnglangh d tian, ni zyengzai xinshangt "Qibz Lub qingc weiw liaow", huran yi zhenl feng lai, "dangc xiongp sheng cengm yun", zhvansyunjian, bianw xiangr Songl Zh Wenk zai 《Guiiyangh san ri syuhuaix》li shuo ki d naayang, "yonhais si mmangmangs". S yun ma? Ttoushang mngmingh lingw you yun zai. Kaanyangzi s jixues, yaoobu y s meanxuys duit, gaogao didib, leanxuubuduan, yizhib ba tianbian biaancheng haaibian. Yyushi yyangguang lueeguoz, yonhais d yinj taos xiangr dujj l jinj, youh xiangr zhaow l huoh, shaocheng huijinhh, buzhi quuxiangl, luuchu daadi d miaanmu. Liang tiao bbaixiany, ququzrezre, s Lais Hes, s Wenss Hes. Yi g heidianzi zai biilioy d ttu’anm zhongjian yyidong, fangvfurf mmayif, youh maod yi lioys qingyanh. Ni zyengzai drisxouhuaagiao, shuocrangdaoodvan, xuhuanh h zhenxiangw yishih dou zai wus li xiaoshid.

Women mmeiyou kan dao rrichu d qqijingh. Na yao zai qiugaoqiishvang d srihouh. Buguoz women y you ziigi d dduder zh lex: women zai yus zhong kan dao d puubuy, liang tian yivhou siashan, yivjing bu naayang zyuanglib l. Xiao puubuy bujianp, da puubuy biand xiao l. Women yansb z Xil Xisx, fanshanyueelingv, chuanguoz gvoxiangc pubipz d pngguom yuanll, zai Heilong Tanss fuujinz daiz l laaobaantian. Bushi siawuhz yao ganz hvoche d hua, women hhaihui daiz siaqu d. Shanshiq h shvishiq zai zyeli bbieshi yizhongc ggediaok, biaanhuad erw youh hhexiekh.

Shan mmeiyou shui, rrutong ren mmeiyou yanvjingp, siihuw shao l lngxingx. Women ganvyu zai yus zhong dengz Taibr Shan, kan dao yooushengk yooushiq d feiquans leubuy, qingppendaayuv d srihouh, ciahao youh zai Douq Mur Gongl dvoguoz, yilu xing lai, you yus qux erw wu lnlis zh ku, ziiran y jiu ggewai ganvdao yiixingq aangran.

雨中登泰山 李健吾

从火车上遥望泰山，几十年来有好些次了，每次想起“孔子登东山而小鲁，登泰山而小天下”那句话来，就觉得过而不登，像是欠下悠久的文化传统一笔债似的。杜甫的愿望：

“会当凌绝顶，一览众山小”，我也一样有，惜乎来去匆匆，每次都当面错过了。

而今确实要登泰山了，偏偏天公不作美，下起雨来，淅淅沥沥，不像落在地上，倒像落在心里。天是灰的，心是沉的。我们约好了清晨出发，人齐了，雨却越下越大。等天晴吗？想着这渺茫的“等”字，先是憋闷。盼到十一点半钟，天色转白，我不由喊了一句：“走吧！”带动年轻人，挎起背包，兴致勃勃，朝岱宗坊出发了。

是烟是雾，我们辨认不清，只见灰蒙蒙一片，把老大一座高山，上上下下，裹了一个严实。古老的泰山越发显得崔嵬了。我们才过岱宗坊，震天的吼声就把我们吸引到虎山水库的大坝前面。七股大水，从水库的桥孔跃出，仿佛七幅闪光黄锦，直铺下去，碰着嶙嶙的乱石，激起一片雪白水珠，脱线一般，撒在洄漩的水面。这里叫作虬在湾：据说虬早已被吕洞宾渡上天了，可是望过去，跳掷翻腾，像又回到了故居。

我们绕过虎山，站到坝桥上，一边是平静的湖水，迎着斜风细雨，懒洋洋只是欲步不前，一边却喑恶叱咤，似有千军万马，躲在绮丽的黄锦底下。黄锦是方便的比喻，其实是一幅细纱，护着一幅没有经纬的精致图案，透明的白纱轻轻压着透明的米黄花纹。——也许只有织女才能织出这种瑰奇的景色。

雨大起来了，我们拐进王母庙后的七真祠。这里供奉着七尊塑像，正面当中是吕洞宾，两旁是他的朋友铁拐李和何仙姑，东西两侧是他的四个弟子，所以叫作七真祠。吕洞宾和他的两位朋友倒也还罢了，站在龛里的两个小童和柳树精对面的老人，实在是少见的传神之作。一般庙宇的塑像，往往不是平板，就是怪诞，造型偶尔美的，又不像中国人，跟不上这位老人这样逼真、亲切。无名的雕塑家对年龄和面貌的差异有很深的认识，形象才会这样栩栩如生。不是年轻人提醒我该走了，我还会欣赏下去的。

我们来到雨地，走上登山的正路，一连穿过三座石坊：一天门、孔子登临处和天阶。水声落在我们后面，雄伟的红门把山挡住。走出长门洞，豁然开朗，山又到了我们跟前。人朝上走，水朝下流，流进虎山水库的中溪陪我们，一直陪到二天门。悬崖崚嶒，石缝滴滴哒哒，泉水和雨水混在一起，顺着斜坡，流进山涧，涓涓的水声变成訇訇的雷鸣。有时候风过云开，在底下望见南天门，影影绰绰，耸立山头，好像并不很远；紧十八盘仿佛一条灰白大蟒，匍匐在山峡当中；更多的时候，乌云四合，层峦叠嶂都成了水墨山水。蹚过中溪水浅的地方，走不太远，就是有名的经石峪，一片大水漫过一亩大小的一个大石坪，光光的石头刻着一部《金刚经》，字有斗来大，年月久了，大部分都让水磨平了。回到正路，雨不知道什么时候已经住了，人走了一身汗，巴不得把雨衣脱下来，凉快凉快。说巧也巧，我们正好走进一座柏树林，阴森森的，亮了的天又变黑了，好像黄昏提前到了人间，汗不但下去，还觉得身子发冷，无怪乎人把这里叫作柏洞。我们抖擞精神，一气走过壶天阁，登上黄岘岭，发现沙石全是赤黄颜色，明白中溪的水为什么黄了。

靠住二天门的石坊，向四下里眺望，我又是骄傲，又是担心。骄傲我已经走了一半的山路，担心自己走不了另一半的山路。云薄了，雾又上来。我们歇歇走走，走走歇歇，如今已经是下午四点多了。困难似乎并不存在，眼面前是一段平坦的下坡土路，年轻人跳跳蹦蹦，走了下去，我也像年轻了一样，有说有笑，跟在他们后头。

我们在不知不觉中，从下坡路转到上坡路，山势陡峭，上升的坡度越来越大。路一直是宽整的，只有探出身子的时候，才知道自己站在深不可测的山沟边，明明有水流，却听不见水声。仰起头来朝西望，半空挂着一条两尺来宽的白带子，随风摆动，想凑近了看，隔着辽阔的山沟，走不过去。我们正在赞不绝口，发现已经来到一座石桥跟前，自己还不清楚是怎么一回事，细雨打湿了浑身上下。原来我们遇到另一类型的飞瀑，紧贴桥后，我们不提防，几乎和它撞个正着。水面有两三丈宽，离地不高，发出一泻千里的龙虎声威，打着桥下奇形怪状的石头，口沫喷的老远。从这时候起，山涧又从左侧转到右侧，水声淙淙，跟我们跟到南天门。

过了云步桥，我们开始走上攀登泰山主峰的盘道。南天门应该近了，由于山峡回环曲折，反而望不见了。野花野草，什么形状也有，什么颜色也有，挨挨挤挤，芊芊莽莽，要把巉岩的山石装扮起来。连我上了一点岁数的人，也学小孩子，掐了一把，直到花朵和叶子全蔫了，才带着抱歉的心情，丢在山涧里，随水漂去。但是把人的心灵带到一种崇高的境界的，却是那些“吸翠霞而夭矫”的松树。它们不怕山高，把根扎在悬崖绝壁的隙缝，身子扭的像盘龙柱子，在半空展开枝叶，像是和狂风乌云争夺天日，又像是和清风白云游戏。有的松树望穿秋水，不见你来，独自上到高处，斜着身子张望。

有的松树像一顶墨绿大伞，支开了等你。有的松树自得其乐，显出一副潇洒的模样。不管怎么样，它们都让你觉得它们是泰山的天然的主人，谁少了谁，都像不应该似的。雾在对松山的山峡飘来飘去，天色眼看黑将下来。我不知道上了多少石级，一级又一级，是乐趣也是苦趣，好像从我有生命以来就在登山似的，迈前脚，拖后脚，才不过走完慢十八盘。我靠住升仙坊，仰起头来朝上望，紧十八盘仿佛一架长梯，搭在南天门口。我胆怯了。新砌的石级窄窄的，搁不下整脚。怪不得东汉的应劭，在《泰山封禅仪记》里，这样形容：“仰视天门窔辽，如从穴中视天，直上七里，赖其羊肠逶迤，名曰环道，往往有絙索可得而登也，两从者扶挟前人相牵，后人见前人履底，前人见后人顶，如画重累人矣，所谓磨胸捏石扪天之难也。”一位老大爷，斜着脚步，穿花一般，侧着身子，赶到我们前头。一位老大娘，挎着香袋，尽管脚小，也稳稳当当，从我们身边过去。我像应劭说的那样，“目视而脚不随”，抓住铁扶手，揪牢年轻人，走十几步，歇一口气，终于在下午七点钟，上到南天门。

心还在跳，腿还在抖，人到底还是上来了。低头望着新整然而长极了的盘道，我奇怪自己居然也能上来。我走在天街上，轻松愉快，像一个没事人一样。一排留宿的小店，没有名号，只有标记，有的门口挂着一只笊篱，有的窗口放着一对鹦鹉，有的是一根棒槌，有的是一条金牛，地方宽敞的摆着茶桌，地方窄小的只有炕几，后墙紧贴着峥嵘的山石，前脸正对着万丈的深渊。别成一格的还有那些石头。古诗人形容泰山，说“泰山岩岩”，注解人告诉你：岩岩，积石貌。的确这样，山顶越发给你这种感觉。有的石头像莲花瓣，有的像大象头，有的像老人，有的像卧虎，有的错落成桥，有的兀立如柱，有的侧身探海，有的怒目相向。有的什么也不像，黑忽忽的，一动不动，堵住你的去路。年月久，传说多，登封台让你想象帝王拜山的盛况，一个光秃秃的地方会有一块石碣，指明是“孔子小天下处”。有的山池叫作洗头盆，据说玉女往常在这里洗过头发；有的山洞叫作白云洞，传说过去往外冒白云，如今不冒白云了，白云在山里依然游来游去。晴朗的天，你正在欣赏“齐鲁青未了”，忽然一阵风来，“荡胸生层云”，转瞬间，便像宋之问在《桂阳三日述怀》里说起的那样，“云海四茫茫”。是云吗？头上明明另有云在。看样子是积雪，要不也是棉絮堆，高高低低，连续不断，一直把天边变成海边。于是阳光掠过，云海的银涛像镀了金，又像着了火，烧成灰烬，不知去向，露出大地的面目。两条白线，曲曲折折，是濑河，是汶河。一个黑点子在碧绿的图案中间移动，仿佛蚂蚁，又冒一缕青烟。你正在指手画脚，说长道短，虚象和真象一时都在雾里消失。

我们没有看到日出的奇景。那要在秋高气爽的时候。不过我们也有自己的独得之乐：我们在雨中看到的瀑布，两天以后下山，已经不那样壮丽了。小瀑布不见，大瀑布变小了。我们沿着西溪，翻山越岭，穿过果香扑鼻的苹果园，在黑龙潭附近待了老半天。不是下午要赶火车的话，我们还会待下去的。山势和水势在这里别是一种格调，变化而又和谐。

山没有水，如同人没有眼睛，似乎少了灵性。我们敢于在雨中登泰山，看到有声有势的飞泉流布，倾盆大雨的时候，恰好又在斗母宫躲过，一路行来，有雨趣而无淋漓之苦，自然也就格外感到意兴盎然。